The Gourmand Grows up...

The Next Chapter

Wednesday, April 16, 2008

Passover Production: Making It All (Menu and Recipes)

It used to be that I made everything except the gefilte fish. Then one year I decided to give that a try and once I did, I couldn't go back to the store-bought variety, or felt guilty if I did. At the same time I also discovered that homemade horseradish is worlds better than jarred. So basically, I make everything except the matzoh. This year's menu looks like this:

Seder Plate (Homemade Charoset)

Salmon Gefilte Fish With Chrain (Horseradish and Beets)

Matzoh Ball Soup

Brisket With Red Wine

Wild Mushroom Kugel

Roasted Parnsips With Olive Oil and Honey


Desserts:

Coconut Macaroons

Chocolate-Caramel Matzoh

Flourless Chocolate Cupcakes


As you can see, Passover is a labor intensive holiday and most of the cooking can be done in advance (which for me will be tomorrow). It is the holiday where I sorely miss the presence of some maternal relatives. If only I had a bevy of ladies like these to help out!




On the other hand, as far as I know, my grandma never made her own gefilte fish and she would have probably told me I was meshuganeh if I had suggested otherwise and my mother was not much for cooking (so I've been told).

Which leaves me with Izzy, my faithful kitchen helper (when he is in the mood and not at school). We were supposed to start cooking today but the weather was too nice so instead of starting my fish stock and gefilte, we went on an adventure to Liberty State Park.

Tuesday, April 15, 2008

How Do Those Little Old Ladies Do It? or The Granny Cart Got Me

I have been steering around a granny cart of one kind or another for at least 15 years. Aside from some recent issues with faulty granny carts, I've been managing fine or so I thought. But today my granny cart tripped me up, full of salmon and fishbones and all manner of Passover ingredients.


There I was, innocently pushing it along Seventh Avenue, with Izzy pushing his owl in a stroller, full speed ahead, when the cart hit an uneven sidewalk area. I didn't realize it but I kept walking, while the cart, laden with food, lurched backwards, caught my shin and caused me to stumble most awkwardly to the ground with granny cart on top of me. Had I been alone, Izzy would not have taken notice, given that he was waiting at the corner. Thankfully M. (a pottery class mom) was walking with me as our kids zoomed ahead, and she quickly came to my rescue. I hobbled to a nearby bench and only then did Izzy and friends realize that something was amiss and turn around.

Meanwhile I had a short rest and made an assessment of the situation. Although my ankle was slightly swollen, I figured I could make it home. Hopefully it is more of a surface injury as I have been able to walk on it with only minor discomfort.

Monday, April 14, 2008

Supermarket Entertainment: Better Than Goldfish

My friend R. loved to troll the aisles of Whole Foods with her two year old daughter firmly attached to her boob. Now mind you, she was not holding the child but rather had her in the kid seat, in a forward leaning position. Rest assured, modesty was no issue here. This was simply the least stressful way for both of them to get the shopping done. Needless to say, she provided much entertainment for her fellow shoppers, who couldn't tear their eyes away from her pert boobs and this unusual sight in suburban New Jersey.

Now I am no stranger to nursing in public but the scene was even a bit much for me. Particularly since I didn't want to suffer any "monkey see, monkey due" consequences. You see Izzy was nearly or maybe four and was fairly accustomed to not needing his boobie in public so I didn't want to give him any ideas. Nursing children are easily influenced by the sight of others so I quickly steered my shopping cart in the opposite direction.

I was reminded of the above scenario while reading Yummy Mummy's newest tale of shopping woes. She trumps my friend R., by baring her boobies in proximity to a gaggle of hunky firemen, lucky fellows. Much wackiness ensues as she tries to navigate the supermarket aisles. But she does get the shopping done.

In light of the latest in the annals of toddler tandem shopping, a few things have become quite clear : 1. Toddler nursing can be instrumental to a successful shopping trip. 2. Having one child sure does make shopping easier. 3. I suppose I should call myself lucky because Izzy usually waited until we left the store, wherein I was overburdened with too many bags and had to find some outdoor spot in which to awkwardly nurse him without scattering all of my purchases hither and yon. 4. All of my shopping excursions with Izzy have ultimately paid off and he now makes shopping easier. Just watch as he unloads his granny cart!

And that is only the half of it. The commentary and buying advice he provides add to the whole experience.

Sunday, April 13, 2008

Gone Gefilte Fishing

Caught me a salmon instead. Yes, surprising as it may seem, salmon gefilte fish has become a tradition in my house. I used to buy the pike and carp as directed in the traditional recipes but when Anne Rosenweig made her Salmon Gefilte Fish recipe public I quickly became a convert. These delicately flavored fish balls are far more palatable than the original recipe.

You may wonder why I even bother to make my own gefilte fish. After all, I live close enough to Zabar's and Citarella where I could easily purchase a decent rendition (and I have in the past). Yet ever since I prepared gefilte fish at home I expect myself to do it and feel guilty if I don't. There is a certain je ne sais quoi about clouds of fishy steam enveloping me as I prepare the fish stock, by far the worse part of the process. Once the worst is over the rest is a breeze and somehow I feel involved in some ancient tradition as I form these Passover quenelles.

These light pink 'gefilte' fishes will surprise your guests and they are far more appealing to any goyim in the house. Because let's face it, how many non-Jews (or even Jews for that matter)truly like gefilte fish?



Salmon Gefilte Fish With Carrots
The Chef
ANNE ROSENZWEIG of Inside

Servings
Serves eight.

Ingredients
Fish stock:
1 salmon or whitefish frame, cut up
1 onion, peeled and stuck with 6 cloves
2 carrots, chopped roughly
1 parsnip, chopped roughly
7 black peppercorns
1/4 cup white wine

Salmon gefilte fish:
1 pound salmon fillet, skinned and cut in chunks
1 small onion, peeled and quartered
2 small carrots, peeled; 1 sliced thin, 1 cut in chunks
1 small parsnip, peeled, cut in chunks
2 eggs
1/4 cup matzo meal
1 and 1/4 teaspoons salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
5 cups fish stock (recipe above)
1/4 cup sugar
1/2 cup chopped dill

Cooking Instructions
Fish stock: Put all the stock ingredients in a small stockpot and add water to cover. Bring to a boil; then immediately reduce the heat to a simmer. Cook for just 15 minutes, skimming often. Strain and reserve the stock. (Can be made two days ahead.)

Gefilte fish: Chill the fish and vegetables. Place the onion, the carrot cut in chunks, and the parsnip in a food processor, and chop finely. Add the salmon and process to a coarse purée. Add eggs, matzo meal, salt, and pepper, and process until combined.

Place fish stock and sugar in a saucepan, and bring to a light simmer. With cold, wet hands, form the fish mixture into 8 quenelles. Poach the quenelles in the simmering stock, covered, for 2 minutes. Remove the quenelles to a shallow bowl and set aside.

Place quenelles in shallow serving dish and top with carrots and sprigs of dill. Pour stock over and allow to chill.

Saturday, April 12, 2008

My Adventures In Raw Milk Continue: Cup Cheese


Each time I place my dairy order, the delivery always comes as a delightful surprise as I never remember exactly what I had ordered. This week I placed my largest order ever. I received a delivery which included some new items like goat butter, goat yogurt and most notably, cup cheese. I was inspired to order this when I heard that it was made with cheese curds like those used in cottage cheese. The curds are dried and then baking soda, cream, butter and milk are added. The whole mixture is stirring until it is exceptionally smooth. It is a traditional Pennsylvania Dutch food and I learned more about it here.

To me it is most reminiscent of melted Laughing Cow cheese. Izzy seemed reluctant to try it but has managed to spoon up a few mouthfuls. His immediate reaction was, "This doesn't taste like much." True it is extremely mild in flavor but that hasn't kept me from indiscriminately spreading it on bread and crackers. But now I understand why D. who recommended I purchase this cheese, suggested that Izzy might like his with hot and spicy oil...

Meanwhile I have been musing over using it to make an exceptionally creamy macaroni and cheese...Stay tuned.

Thursday, April 10, 2008

My Passover Baby: A Birthday Glitch?

April 17, 2003 hugely pregnant, due date only 6 days away and I prepared a Passover Seder. In the midst of it all, I began to feel fatigued so I politely excused myself to the powder room where I noted an unmistakable, classic sign that something was clearly happening. Nothing earth-shattering so I went back to the Seder. The next day, I met my friend S. at City Bakery for lunch, which is always full of Passover-friendly options. Contractions began while eating but I still wasn't quite convinced that it was the real thing. I just thought Izzy was enjoying the food.

Later on that evening, I attended another Seder and upon returning home went to bed, where within minutes my water broke. There was no denying it at that point. My labor lasted an awfully long time but finally, 34 hours later, on April 19., 2003; Izzy was born.

Since Passover is decidedly my favorite holiday, I reveled in calling Izzy my Passover baby. True that though Passover doesn't fall at the same time every year I knew that the dates would eventually align.

And here we are, only five years later, and they have. What I hadn't counted on was the fact that I wouldn't be able to make or serve a normal birthday cake. At least not on his actual birthday. What I have managed to do is formulate a wacky plan which will allow for at least three birthday celebrations, one of which will include the school cupcakes on April 18th, before the actual beginning of the holiday.

Then I have plans for decadent Passover chocolate cupcakes and other desserts, followed by a party for his friends a few weeks later. All in all, perhaps being Passover baby will work out after all.

Wednesday, April 9, 2008

Finally Fish

No, not the "one with the eyes" this time. Just boring trout fillets. The safest fish I could find that would meet with A.'s approval.

I have to say, I have never seen a child get so excited about fish. I can hardly fathom it. I have the worst fish memories. I loathed most fish that came my way (except tuna), particularly the broiled sort, which my stepmother was famous for. It was always the same. Flounder or sole, sprinkled with paprika and margarine. YUCK! I could barely swallow the stuff and it stank up the house.

Izzy sees fish in an entirely different light. He even eats the trout skin, which I can't say I find entirely appealing, though I do eat it. How sad that I am raising a fish lover as fish supplies are dwindling...