The Gourmand Grows up...

The Next Chapter

Thursday, July 14, 2011

When Life Gives You Lemons - Loll: Of our days in Praiano, Italy - Lemon Groves and Locanda Costa Diva

Night falls on the lemon grove
We arrived in Praiano a week ago and here we have stayed, nestled amongst lemon groves in our most adorable hotel,  La Locanda Costa Diva.  It is in fact, a restored farmhouse and the rooms seem to be built around the lemon, olive and other fruit trees which grace this cliffside retreat; the entire property boasting spectacular views of the sea and other local scenery.

Praiano is a small, quiet village along the Amalfi Coast - an easy distance (along narrow, harrowing roads) from its more boisterous neighbors, Positano and Amalfi.  At first I wasn’t sure how Izzy and I would fare here, as there is little more to do than go to the beach and figure out our next meal.

For our first 4 days we befriended a traveling mother and her teenaged daughter from Calgary, also at the hotel.  It was nice to exchange tales of our daily adventures with them, breakfast time or dinner each day.  Once they left I wondered if we would find some other travelers to entertain us, as many of the other rooms here are occupied by honeymooner types. In fact one evening, we heard some loudish music emanating from a room below ours and Izzy went to peek out over the balcony only to discover a couple in their private jacuzzi (not as private as they thought!).

We settled into a routine and each day we have come to appreciate our surroundings all the more.  Each morning, we sleep until 8 (or Izzy later if I don’t awaken him accidentally).  We make our way to breakfast at around 9 where a copious spread awaits us in the dining room.  There is plenty to fuel us for the day - yogurt, blood orange juice, croissants, rolls with jam and butter, fresh fruit cocktail, assorted farm fruits - plums, cherries, etc, cereals, cappuccino, tea and specially for me, rice milk.
After gorging on these delights we usually spend some time in dining room while I use the WiFi hotspot - as there is no free internet in the rooms (something that distressed me at first but is probably for the best as I am forced to limit my time at the computer).

After breakfast we usually meander back to our room and either take a bus on an excursion or go to the beach.  Each day there is some small discovery to be made.  Often, Izzy wanders along the paths created in and amongst the lemon groves, and takes great pleasure in snitching lemons (which we use in our endless bottles of fizzy water) and other fruits.



Lizards flit along the paths, surprising us at every turn and the hotel dog, “Billy” is our constant companion whenever we approach the dining room.  I think he must appreciate our truffle scent  (I packed truffle salt in our luggage as gifts and all of our clothing carries the aroma).

"Billy" rolls over for a scratch

The more we learn of this charming locale, the more we have come to love it. We have gotten to know our surroundings and the super-friendly and accomodating staff and we will certainly be sorry to leave here on Sunday.

Tuesday, July 12, 2011

Travel Indecisions/Decisions: Where do we go from here?

 It has been four years since Izzy and I made our first journey to Europe.  Far too much time has passed since that trip and we have longed to take another one.  This year, in celebration of my one year cancerversary (Yes! June marked one year since I finished cancer treatment) I decided we would go on a long voyage.  Where we would go?  I wasn't exactly sure but I knew we would go to Europe.

At home I planned the first and last weeks of our trip.  We would start out in Germany where we would visit with Aunt B. and Uncle Rabbit in Altotting. This would be relaxing, or so I had hoped. At the end of our trip we would visit with our old Jersey City friends, Helen, I. et al. in London.  We would be gone for five weeks total.

With the first week and the last week of our trip  planned, we left Jersey City.  I spent that first week in a state of agitation as I tried to resolve the question of where we would actually go.  As I had packed far too much luggage, we were somewhat limited to places that would not involve too many train/plane transfers and other maneuvers that would involve carrying the luggage.  I had initially imagined a stay in just one place - renting a house or an apartment and exploring one town for a month. I mulled over places like Provence (been there), Apulia (saw great article in the NY Times about it) and Sicily (intriguing), Ischia (worried about getting around) a farmstay in the Sora (sounds wonderful) and Praiano - a small coastal town between Amalfi and Positano which seemed to have the most appeal.   I tried to book the farmstay as well as a week in Praiano.  At first this appeared to be the perfect plan but I began to worry about the luggage situation and felt that the traveling between place to place would be less relaxing than what I had intended.  In the end I  booked a ticket from Munich to Naples and we took a car service to Praiano where we would stay for 11 days.

Our flight to Naples was uneventful.  We found our luggage and our driver from Italy Limousine,  met us and whisked us off to Praiano.  He was an expert and I never once felt uncomfortable as we wound our way around the narrow main road of the Amalfi Coast.  The scenic drive was merely an introduction to the beauty of this area, where houses are built into the rocks of the cliffs. We arrived at our hotel, La Locanda Costa Diva, at about 8:30 p.m... We set our bags down and looked around.  I was relieved to find that I had selected a most beautiful and peaceful locale.  Perhaps I would finally be able to relax...


We have now be at La Locanda Costa Diva since July 7th.  This small coastal village is a quiet respite from life as we know it... to be continued...

Friday, July 8, 2011

Antics in Altotting: of biking, hiking and picking, or living the country life June 28-July 6 2011

For the 8 years since Aunt B moved to live with her Rabbit in Germany, I had a certain image of where it was she lived.  My mind’s eye envisioned a small, stand-alone house quite like the one she lives in, though hers is attached.  Here it is, on our final day.

Little House On the Stinglhammer
The house has three floors.  On the first floor is a living room and kitchen, bathroom and backdoor which leads out to a lovely backyard.  The second floor houses a sitting room/office and the master bedroom and top floor contains the guest quarters.

During our stay Izzy and I shared the upstairs quarters.  Attic bedroom with street view, small bathroom and a room in which to leave our luggage.  The light (sometimes sun) shone brightly into our room each morning, awakening me earlier than I would have liked.  Though somehow not interrupting Izzy as he slept on.

Each morning Aunt B. prepared our breakfast - for Izzy, a bowl of fruit and yogurt, for me a bowl of fruit and tea.  On nice days we could have our breakfast in the backyard - gazing out at the large sunflower patches, mint and other assorted flowers which decorated the grasses. Chickens occasionally clucked by, stopped for some crusts of bread

Each day was a lazy one, in which we wouldn’t usually get out of the house until 11.  Should we go to market? Go out to lunch or have an adventure? Before any of that, we stopped at the local bakery to select our daily pretzel snack.  Sesame, poppy, salted or pumpkin seed?  Izzy and I favored the sesame seed ones which came pretzel-shaped or round, which I daresay are true kin to the bagel.

After our snack we chose an adventure.  Our first outing was a visit to the local Wednesday market in Neutotting.  There we bought some fixings for lunch etc. - head cheese, bread and other tidbits. That afternoon Brooke and Isadore went for a walk in the woods in search of frogs. 

Next day was bike riding in the fields and woods. We met some cats along the way.

Izzy and his new cat friend

One day we visited Burghausen - to see the castle


A highlight of our trip was blueberry picking at a nearby field where rows and rows of plump, juicy berries were ripe for picking.  Izzy, Brooke, Peter and I managed to collect about 10 lbs. of berries on our first outing.  Half were given away and we managed to eat 5 lbs. in 2 days.   They were a steady part of our diet and we liked them so much that we went back a second time to collect more so that we had extra to take with us on our trip to Italy.

Blueberry fields forever
Last but not least,  was our hike in the Bavarian Alps, worthy of a post all its own.





 So much more to say but have to get to the next part of our trip. Thank you Aunt B. and Uncle Rabbit for a most unforgettable visit.  See you next year :)!





 

Thursday, July 7, 2011

July 4th BBQ Celebration: Altotting


Uncle Rabbit grilled pork filet.  Izzy assisted.  He especially enjoyed fanning the fire.


There were roasted potatoes and salad too.



I contributed my version of German bruschetta - stale bread, sliced, grilled, rubbed with garlic and topped with chopped salami, basil and olive oil.



For dessert - Toasted Marshmallows!



The evening ended with sparklers - in the light, and later on when it got dark.


Happy Belated July 4th!

Monday, July 4, 2011

Splendid Eats In and Near Altotting: Birni's and Ming's

It has been nearly a week since we arrived in Altotting, a small village in South East Germany, best known for religious pilgrimages.  I have heard tell that the pious travel from far and wide, coming here to be magically cured - evidence of crutches left behind adorn the chapel where people pray, not far from a fountain purported to have healing powers.  I couldn't resist a dip but unfortunately have to say I haven't been magic as "the rash" persists (will come to that some other time).  In the meanwhile,  I have encountered some fine things to eat (other than Miss B's cooking), namely two restaurants, Birni's and Ming's Lounge.

Birni's, which is not actually Altotting but is instead in Neutotting (about 5 minutes away by car) is certainly a destination restaurant - worthy of far longer than a five minute ride to be sure).  They offer locally inspired and updated German cuisine - think airy foams rather than heavy sauces - in a lovely, light-filled setting, where wood, candles and flowers abound.  This is delightful experience not to be missed if you are within an hour or so.  Friendly staff only add to the perfect evening. 

Salad with crispy mushrooms from Birni's
Ming's is a more casual option but equally noteworthy.  This hip, Thai restaurant offers a nicely rounded menu of expertly sauced Thai dishes.  I thoroughly enjoyed my crisp duck with coconut curry and the other dishes looked equally tantalizing. Here too, service was warm and friendly.

Crispy Duck in Coconut Curry

Rest assured, that the next time you visit Altotting, you will be able to find something really good to eat.

Thursday, June 30, 2011

Jet lag lazy: First days in Altotting

My friend H. had counseled me to fly to Europe on a daytime flight, something that in all my days of traveling I had never done or even considered before.  We took a 9:00 a.m. flight and arrived at our final destination at 9 p.m.  There was no place to get dinner so we had to order room service which turned out to be pricey and mediocre.  During past travels, I always enjoyed arriving in Europe for breakfast, where I could have a fresh croissant or baguette to begin a lazy, tired day.  This was indeed different though I am still uncertain as to whether it was better.

The rationale for taking the daytime flight was that Izzy's jet lag would be less problematic.  I am not sure which I prefer as he now enjoys staying up until midnight and sleeping until 10:30.  I, meanwhile can't seem to sleep past 6 a.m. and then become exhausted throughout the day.


Since we are staying with Aunt Brooke and Uncle Rabbit I have had the luxury of just lolling about.  I have been mulling over the possibilities for our upcoming travels whilst at times, Brooke entertains Izzy.  They have visited a nearby creek in search of frogs and together we have gone bike riding.  We biked near farms, passing some chickens and barn cats along the way.  Then through a forest where Izzy and I were eaten up itchy by some tiny black insects.  On our way out of the forest we stopped at a "Pick your own flowers" farm where Izzy insisted on buying one daisy with some euro change he had in his pocket.

We have also been eating in style, thanks to Miss Brooke who has been cooking up a storm while I sit idly by.  She showcases local produce, fish and meats.  Dinner our second night...

Moroccan Vegetable Stew, Couscous and Turkey Breast

Dinner our third night...
Trout with Riesling and Shredded Carrots
Tomato and Green Bean Salad
Oh and I forgot to mention our first meal in Altotting... We went to dinner at a local Beer Garden within a forest...quite a Bavarian meal.  A very porky experience to say the least!  Tomorrow's agenda is too include a visit to long Bavarian castle...stay-tuned.

Wednesday, June 29, 2011

Wake me up before my blog goes...(New adventures on the horizon)

This blog has remained dormant for too long.

Why? You ask.  I can't say for sure.

I have begun many a blog post, only to leave it dangling, unfinished.  Good Eggs have been eaten.  Praying Mantises have hatched.  Each moment has a story.  Thoughts come and then they go.  New ones arise and I leave them too. And I do regret not telling many a tale.  For several months, the urge to tell tales has fizzled. Perhaps I have need to be quiet.

I started this blog in part as a way of chronicling Izzy's childhood through the perspective of food;  which I have tried to maintain throughout.  My other goal was to share how I turned the idea of raising a child who is willing to eat most things, and revel in it,  into a reality.

My eight year old Izzy, yes indeed he is now EIGHT, is a very fine eater.  He regularly orders escargot at our favorite local French restaurant, enjoys making and drinking fresh carrot juice and considers Swiss Chard to be one of his favorite vegetables.  I still love the idea of sharing tales of Izzy and his eating adventures yet I also wish to share more.

The good news is that right now I couldn't ask for more inspiration as Izzy and I have embarked upon a month-long adventure in Europe. We arrived in London on Monday, June 27th for an overnight stay at an airport hotel (something I have never done before and hope not to do again) and then a flight to Munich.  We are now relaxing in the small Bavarian town of Altotting, where we are staying with my most gracious friend Brooke and her husband, Peter Rabbit.

In the meanwhile, as I seek more blog inspiration, I wonder if I need to begin a new blog, one which will encompass more than just Izzy and our adventures.  I hope to share more than just food tales as I make new discoveries of all kinds.

And so dear readers - if there are any of you left.. I turn to you for new blog name suggestions -the sooner the better, as I do plan to keep you abreast of our latest adventures and beyond.